Bacon and Butter

Time to Raid the Cabinet

2011-03-06T21:04:00.000-08:00

Oh, lordy, this thing is dead, isn't it? Well, I've something for you that is totally worth reading. It's an original of mine, so far as anything in food or drink can be considered original.

Taking the winning formula of the Last Word, 1/4 oz each of gin, Green Chartreuse, maraschino liqueur, and lime, I decided to make some substitutions. Chartreuse and chocolate are classic, so I switched the maraschino for clear creme de cacao. Chocolate being central/south American in origin, I decided to get rid of junipery, herbal gin for peppery, vegetal tequila. Finally, the lime is replaced with lemon. Really delicious.

The Shelf and The Drinks

2010-11-15T20:57:00.000-08:00

The Esquire drinks database has been down for weeks! It was really useful for keeping track of what I could and couldn't make, but for now, I'm going to be writing a lot on this blog to keep it all on track.

Spirits
Monopolowa vodka
New Amsterdam gin
1800 Reposado tequila
Rittenhouse 100 BIB rye
Evan Williams bourbon
Korbel VSOP brandy

Liqueurs
Green Chartreuse
Luxardo maraschino
Cointreau
Chambord

Vermouths
Noilly Prat dry vermouth
Martini & Rossi sweet vermouth

Bitters
Ramazzotti
Regan's Orange bitters
Angostura bitters

Syrups
agave nectar
homemade grenadine

And now, the drinks! These are the drinks that I can make with what is on my shelf, with sometimes a rough substitution.

Aviation (recipe unperfected)

The Last Word
.75 oz gin
.75 oz maraschino
.75 oz Green Chartreuse
.75 oz lime juice

Bijou (not recommended in any proportions, drink Ramazzotti instead, perhaps strengthened with gin a la Negroni)

Martinez
1.5 oz gin (Old Tom, preferably)
1.5 oz sweet vermouth
1 tsp maraschino (2 if using New Amsterdam gin)
1 dash bitters

Dry Martini
gin
dry vermouth
dash orange bitters

Tommy's Margarita
1.5 oz reposado tequila
.75 oz agave nectar
.50 oz lime juice

Sidecar
1.5 oz brandy
1.0 oz Cointreau
.50 oz lemon juice

Manhattan
rye
sweet vermouth
dash of bitters

Scofflaw
1.5 oz rye
1.0 oz dry vermouth
.50 oz grenadine
.50 oz lemon juice
1 dash orange bitters

Fancy Free (untested)
1.5-2 oz bourbon
.50 oz maraschino
1 dash orange bitters
1 dashe Angostura bitters

Whiskey Sour
1.5 oz bourbon or rye
.75 oz simple syrup
.50+ oz lemon juice

Red Hook (Martinez/Manhattinez variant)
2.0 oz rye
.50 oz Punt e Mes (substitute a combination of red vermouth and Ramazzotti)
.50 oz maraschino

How I Discovered the Secrets of the Negroni

2010-11-04T23:48:00.000-07:00

I have a fascination with equal-parts drinks for their ease of execution, but it is so easy for all of the competing strong ingredients in a Negroni to be overwhelmed by each other. This is not a drink that you can successfully eye-ball pour. I've ordered four Negronis over the past four months, and I think I finally got my favored proportions.

The first Negroni was your basic 1 part gin:1 part red vermouth:1 part Campari (free-poured.) This was a good baseline for comparison. Honestly, it was a little bit difficult to drink because of the bitterness from the Campari.

The second Negroni was of unknown proprtions, Death's Door Gin with Carpano Antica vermouth. Delicious, and most importantly, balanced. Less strong on the vermouth and Campari than the first.

The third Negroni was free-poured with Bombay Sapphire, Martini & Rossi vermouth. Ok, but no sparks going off.

The fourth Negroni was with Tanqueray and Antica, 1.5:1:1. I picked Tanqueray since it is so strong, hoping that it wouldn't get stomped on by the Antica and Campari, since I felt that all of the gins previously used were overshadowed. This time, the Campari was a bit lost, with the vermouth in the forefront!

Finally, I read Marco Dionysus' recipe in an interview; 1.25-1.5:1:0.75. Sounds perfect to me.

The Last Word

2010-08-02T16:04:00.000-07:00

Was originally introduced to me by Phillip at Mesa, after Paul asked for a drink similar to the Aviation, but different. This was what we got:

3/4 oz gin
3/4 oz Green Chartreuse
3/4 oz Luxardo Maraschino
3/4 oz lime juice, or a bit less

Money Matters

2010-06-04T14:11:00.000-07:00

So, shortly after I was hired for a 35-hour per week position, my time was cut to 21-hours/week, a 40% cut. I haven't yet talked to management about it, because I'm too shy, and I hate awkward moments. And because I'm a good person and can't imagine not talking to someone whom I had just cut their hours by 40% and trying to come up with a way to make it better. Its not just the monetary loss that bothers me, but its also lost time in the kitchen that I could be gaining to be a better cook. Options, options...

Updates

2010-05-28T11:59:00.000-07:00

Guess I've been busy, so little blog love lately, but here goes:

I've now been employed at Haven for over a month now. My take-home pay is less than $1000 a month, which is damn pitiful, and I'm trying to spend enough time on the line to not feel like an utter newb and gain some composure and style before finding somewhere else to work. Reading Shuna's blog, eggbeater, I'm convinced that I'm not setting myself up for where I want to be in the food world, and I need to dream big and get back out there. Or finally get a "real" job where I'd be using my math degree.

Huckleberry Cafe on Wilshire is totally the emperor's new clothes. I ordered a cookie, a muffin, a chocolate croissant, and a cherry almond custard tart, and nothing warranted the long lines. Go to Amandine or Anisette!

In related news, the $16 burger at Rustic Canyon Winebar, sister restaurant to Huckleberry, is similarly forgettable. Still loving The Office Burger, though.

And then my brother's high school graduation is coming up! The menu is:

avocado, cucumber, and romaine salad with home-grown green goddess dressing
carnitas tacos with beans and grilled corn
blackberry custard gratin

I love my brother.

My Own Place

2010-04-25T12:14:00.000-07:00

Six words to describe my hypothetical casual eatery, and an explanation:

Small. 15-20 menu items.
Seasonal. Going to the market is one of my favorite things to do.
Fun. Fun to cook, that is! One service, with everyone doing prep, service, and organization together.
Simple. Rely on taste and smell, not on recipes.
Whimsical. Always include the element of surprise.
Passionate. If I can't serve an amazingly good version of something, it won't be on the menu.

What I Learned in Italy

2010-03-27T21:45:00.000-07:00

I noshed on Italian gelato so often, in Milan, in Rome, in Sardegna, Bologna, and Venice, that I started to wonder what the big deal was. The best thing I learned was that the test of a good gelateria lay in its most difficult flavors: chocolate gelato and lemon sorbetto. A gelato hound need only to appraise the complexity and balance of flavors in the chocolate, and the texture of the lemon

So when I walked off the busy Huntington Beach pier and into Mangiamo Gelato Caffe, the first thing I asked for a taste of was the lemon sorbetto. The texture was smooth and silky... just amazing. Not only was the texture world-class, the lemon flavor came through loud and clear. Surprised and pleased as punch down to my tippy toes, I asked for a taste of the chocolate. It was good, better than any average Hershey's chocolate bar or Dreyer's chocolate ice cream. While maybe it didn't blow me away as much as the lemon sorbetto, it did confirm to me that this was a very serious gelateria. I ended up getting stracciatella, hazelnut, carmel and sea salt, and lemon.

The staff is pleasant and knowledgeable, the atmosphere on Main St is hip, and the gelato is world-class. I think I just found my favorite place in Huntington Beach, and I'm planning to introduce my friends and little cousins to this gem.

Satiation

2010-03-26T03:19:00.000-07:00

I'm at peace with every decision I've made in life.

Risi e Bisi

2010-03-12T00:45:00.000-08:00

I was on a cheap eats quest, and from the pantry, and I had all the basic ingredients of the Venetian dish, risi e bisi (rice and peas): onion, rice, prosciutto, white wine, chicken stock, peas, butter, and Parmigiano. Wow, this made a beautiful spring side dish! It's super easy, and it is best when kept light and simple. If you want to serve it as a main dish, layer the flavor and hit all the right spots with any combination of these: thyme, celery, chicken stock, and chopped parsley.

American Tea Room, Beverly Hills

2010-03-08T14:19:00.000-08:00

Ah, so beautiful, so expensive. I want a coffee bar kind of like that.

Birthday Review!

2010-02-25T01:15:00.000-08:00

Dinner at home was great, although my apple crumble wasn't quite right. I went to Kean's Coffee afterward. Really? This is the best espresso in OC? It was pretty bitter and burned-tasting. I have a hard time accepting that this is the best I can get without driving to LA. It's not difficult to tell when a shot goes horribly wrong, so either this is the standard, or the barista didn't care.

Dinner just didn't seem done until I'd had a drink, though. I think that puts me at a 5 on an alcoholic 1-10 scale. Luckily, Paul was down to take me out, and we went to Haven Gastropub for dessert and drinks. The Irish Car Bomb is one of their (I wanted to type "our") most popular desserts, but I think it's due more to the name than anything else. I've already raved about their tarte tatin with Maytag ice cream. Instead of my favorite Scotch, Ardmore, Jeff recommended an obscure Irish whiskey, which was remarkably smooth. Chef Greg came by to talk about food, life, and the restaurant with me. I got to say hi to most of the rest of the staff, which was great--it felt like family. And, you know, that's what it comes down to on my birthday: the people I love. Ever since my first food-gasm at Spago on my 20th birthday (four years ago!) I've always associated my birthday with amazing food. This is actually the first year that nothing I had to eat really blew me away, but I don't care, because I felt liked, loved, and appreciated.

Highlights of the past 4 years:

2006, Spago
Blinis with smoked salmon, creme fraiche. Foie gras, five ways. Lamb with bok choy, ravioli. Pad thai with scallops. Sticky toffee pudding, orange sherbet.

2007, Opus with Carly, Vishal, Nancy, and Alejandra
Three course tasting menu, four amuse bouches. Quail topped with seared foie gras, huckleberry. Rhubarb cobbler with vanilla ice cream.

2008, Spago con Carlo
Agnolotti. Some really good venison. Chocolate cake? And their amazing cookie platter.

2009, 420 Kelton Ave with Leo, Aliz, Skot, Emerson, Nancy, Carly, Emmanuele
Grilled asparagus with prosciutto. Beef daube with buttered fettucine, spinach. Arugula with Parmigiano, dates, blood oranges. Cream Pan for dessert.

2010 pre-party, Father's Office and Copa d'Oro with Carly, Alex, Nick, and Allan.
Allagash White was the best beer of the night. The Father's Office burger, of course.
Tommy's margarita, best cocktail of the night.

Fresh linguine with clams, roasted garlic.

Pan seared ribeye, mushroom potato gratin.

Roasted beets, tangerine supremes, mint, walnut, orange flower water, ricotta.

Vanilla semifreddo, rhubarb compote.

Make ahead one day:
ricotta
semifreddo
rhubarb compote

Make ahead, morning:
roast beet, garlic, nuts
potato gratin
linguine

A Reminder to Overly Opinionated Food Bloggers

2010-02-20T11:44:00.000-08:00

Without calling out anyone in particular, I merely would like to quote an excerpt from the introduction to Knives at Dawn: America's Quest for Culinary Glory at the Legendary Bocuse d'Or Competition. Yes, it is a little bit long, but if you can't get through it, I say you have no business writing a food blog.

One of the harsh realities of every chef's life is that, at the end of each day, he will be judged.

In many respects this is unfair, because the food in most restaurants, even the most eye-popping, palate-dazzling, wallet-busting cuisine, is more complex than all but the most knowledgeable diners can realize or appreciate. Just about anything served in high-caliber establishments is the product of hours--if not days--of effort, the culmination of the strivings of at least a handful of people, and up to dozens: fish, meats, and produce selected in consultation with farmers, fishermen, and artisans; long-simmered stocks, peeled and shaped vegetables, and minced herbs generated by the unsung morning crew; sauces, condiments, purées, and garnishes fashioned by the cooks themselves in the hours before lunch or dinner.

Members of a kitchen brigade bring years of hard-won knowledge to bear every time they strap on an apron. But there's no telling what might happen in those dizzying, adrenaline-fueled afternoons and evenings when the components of a dish are fired, seasoned, and brought together. Much has to go right for success; much less need go awry to qualify as failure. It's like that old saw about the Central Intelligence Agency: their daily triumphs are unknown; only their miscues draw criticism. Chefs and their colleagues spend every moment of their working lives swinging from one precarious task to the next: a surfeit of salt and a sauce will diminish rather than enhance all that it touches; a minute too little in the sizzle of a sauté pan and a breast of chicken will be worse than imperfect--it will be a health hazard.

And yet, to those who keep chefs in business, none of that matters. From neighborhood eateries to Michelin-ordained destinations, the moment of truth is brutally simple: the final product is presented, a few ounces framed within the confines of a plate or bowl. Fork or spoon is lifted. Food meets palate. Judgement is rendered.

2010-02-14T00:26:00.000-08:00

So, last night, Copa d'Oro in Santa Monica with a couple of good friends. I wanted Vincenzo, so I got right up in front of his station. He had a couple of tickets, so I waited for him to finish those up. And then, when he noticed me, he had another ticket, but he asked me if I wanted him, or if it was ok if another bartender took care of us, mentioning that the other guy was very good. "Vincenzo, I sat in front of your for station just you!" And, whisk, the ticket gets handed off to the other guy. Must have been my beaming smile.

And, it was worth it. The best damn margarita of my life.

I am pleased to announce

2010-02-10T23:09:00.000-08:00

that the application period is now closed. :)

Valentine's Day

2010-02-07T02:29:00.000-08:00

You know, I wouldn't even go crazy and try to do anything complicated for Valentine's Day.

The menu would look like this:

Poached lobster with butter, lemon zest.
Pan seared NY steak, butter, herbs with sauteed Yukon Golds.
Arugula, lemon.
Strawberry gratin.

BTW, butter==love.

Busy Month

2010-01-30T01:38:00.000-08:00

In February, I have:

Early birthday party/DrinkFest on the 12th.

New Year's dinner party on the 13th.

Valentine's Day on the 14th

Birthday on the 24th.

I am now taking applications for a companion to eat and drink with me for some of these events.

Packing the House

2010-01-11T16:48:00.001-08:00

It is better to have a smaller restaurant and pack it because you put out a good product, and have the luxury of raising costs in order to keep up your quality, than to have a large restaurant where you have to keep costs down in order to pack the house.

When Nightmares about Prep Lists are a GOOD THING

2010-01-09T04:07:00.000-08:00

Because that meant I actually got some sleep.

Would you send a cook home if you knew s/he went two days without sleep? If I didn't need that person, yes. But it's a bit past 4 AM now, and I am planning to show up at work tomorrow. I've already taken two shots, and it did nothing.

Not Father's Office

2009-12-21T00:36:00.000-08:00

I've got a stage set up for 2010. Not sure how long it's going to last yet, but I DO know that I need a new knife. Can't stand the geometry of my Shun chef's. I never realized how much I was slowed down by my damn knife until I came home and used a very dull Henckels (?) santoku and realized that knife blew my Shun out of the water for certain tasks. Also just lost my parer, so a new one of those is in order. Since I've got student loans to repay and lots of other things to buy, I guess I'm going with the Shun 7" santoku. I'll be in a new kitchen, anyway, not sure yet if it would be cool to bring anything really nice.

Home Dry Aging/Brining

2009-11-22T14:33:00.000-08:00

Took the roast out of the cryovac last night, and put it on a roasting rack, which then went into my mini-fridge with a bowl of water. The bowl of water functions more as a thermometer rather than a way to keep the air humidity up. There are two reasons why I think the bowl of water doesn't help the humidity level: evaporation rate and freezing. At the temperature the minifridge is set at (just above freezing) the rate of evaporation is very slow. Further, I believe that the humidity level is kept more or less in equilibrium because of the frost that builds up in the freezer compartment. More water vapor, more frost.

But, anyway, the roast is ok and by Thanksgiving should have achieved just a little bit of darkening, but nothing too drastic. Next time, Choice grade for sure. This one is lacking fat, and I know my family kinda likes thing that way, but I'm worried about the lack of moisture. I'll try to counteract that with green pepper cognac cream sauce.

Thanksgiving Menu, Less Rough Draft

2009-11-21T12:29:00.000-08:00

persimmon and arugula salad

2# foie gras, roasted
port reduction, caramelized grapes and pear

10# rib roast au jus

small roast turkey
turkey gravy

mashed potatoes
Zuni style dressing
sauteed spinach with garlic
bacon sweet potatoes

cranberry walnut clafoutis
winter squash spiced custard

The Bruery, Placentia

2009-11-21T09:28:00.000-08:00

I went to high school in Placentia, and I would have never thought we'd have a micro-brewery of note in P-town until I saw one of The Bruery's offerings at Father's Office.

I've been bugging my friends for a first visit to their tasting room since I've come home this summer. I finally made it there yesterday with my hometown chow accomplice.

First of all, this place is hard to find. The parking lot is dark, and the tasting room is near nothing else. Secondly, I'm pretty sure this place holds more snobby white people than any other establishment in Placentia. Finally, the tasting room is a portion of a warehouse, and is not a bar or a lounge. The atmosphere isn't good at all for a date, because there is nowhere to sit nor comfortably isolate yourself from others.

The Bruery offers five two-ounce tastings for $8. Since there were only six offerings last night, we got to try everything.

Hottenroth Berliner Weisse
Orchard White
White Oak
Saison Rue-this was my favorite: medium body, complex, and a good sipper.
Autumn Maple
Rugbrød
Two Turtle Doves

Come for the beer, because its good and not too esoteric, but bring your own company and atmosphere.

Meat Tastes Like Murder...But It Sure Tastes Good

2009-11-19T23:46:00.000-08:00

Just cleaned out my mini fridge to dry age a full rib roast. I'll probably put the roast in on Saturday, so that will be 5-6 days of dry age. I'm just pissed I didn't check Costco prices first, because for the same price I could have gotten Choice grade. Select is not that great, but a little Dijon mustard, a little brandy and cream sauce equals om nom nom nom nom.

Back to Basics

2009-11-17T23:45:00.000-08:00

Foie gras, lobster, rib roast, and the fixins' is just a little too much work and cost for me. A $300 budget for what I want is much more comfortable, so I am thinking of upping the cost.

Shopping accomplished so far:
11# full rib roast. $53 (USDA Select, obviously)
Sandeman Founder's Reserve port. $11

Thanksgiving Menu Planning!

2009-11-16T12:59:00.000-08:00

This year's family Thanksgiving meal is supposed to be a meal to outdo all other frugal Vietnamese refugee families' TG meals.

The Twisted Vine, Fullerton and a Surprising Discovery

2009-11-14T00:03:00.000-08:00

Hello, readers! So, this is the lowdown right now: no job, few friends, and not too interesting of a life. But I can write and blog. Everybody does it! I don't think I'm a great writer, but most people with blogs aren't, anyway. Furthermore, I'm hardly that much of a food blogger, my cash assets not amounting to much these days. But if you're here and reading this, hopefully you're get something out of it.

I've been missing LA a lot lately. I called up a fellow Bruin '09er who comiserates with me about the sorry state of OC goings-on and we headed to Twisted Vine in Downtown Fullerton.

Looking at the wine list online, the thing that strikes me most is Henriot Souverain Brut Champagne for $30, which is retail price. That's right, 0% markup over retail. Picking a few ramdomly, I see also less than 2x retail, 2x retail, and 3x retail.

Tonight, we we went with Campos Reales tempranillo, 2008, which was unluckily enough about 3.5x retail. Luckily, it didn't taste like a $7-8/bottle. Actually, I would consider it a good QPR wine if I picked it up for the retail cost! Full of red fruit/pomegranate, though a bit thin and short on the finish, and lacking bass notes to round it out. They also have a huge beer selection for people who don't want to drink Champagne in a bar at retail price. I bought a few bottles of Stone beers for later. Atmosphere is inviting and service is fine. If you don't have too high expectations for the kitchen, then The Twisted Vine is really just top notch fun.

Leaving the bar, my friend tells me about his recent forays into coffee! So he's got himself a French press and a bag of supermarket pre-ground coffee, and he's wondering what he's doing wrong, because his brew is too bitter. He tells me that he remembers the the Ethiopian Yigarcheffe that I had previously made for him (and blogged about.) Wow! I made someone coffee in March and he still remembers it! Everyone who lives to eat and cook has little moments like those seared into their memory, when they realized that they were tasting what an olive should taste like, a superlative date, or a swoon-inducing chocolate. And even though I took this guy's virginity (and who only confessed that to me recently,) what he remembers is the coffee I made him.

Eyes Bright, Tail Bushy!

2009-11-12T22:24:00.000-08:00

I applied at a local coffeeshop, where I estimated that there were about 100 applicants for 2 positions. Hello, 10% unemployment!

Holiday Season!

2009-10-22T15:06:00.000-07:00

Who: 16 adults. 19 children.

What: casual dinner party, self-service

Where: home of hostess

When: December 13

How its going down:

roasted pear \ endive \ hazelnuts \ St Agur
porcini \ arugula \ Parmigiano
port-braised shortribs \ horseradish cream \ swiss chard \ mashed potatoes
braised chicken thighs \ olive saffron nage \ roasted leeks \ polenta
Intelligentsia coffee. I love them way too much, despite their faults.

Bouchon Bistro LA

2009-10-21T20:15:00.000-07:00

Anyone got the balls to apply for commis, garde manger, or chef de partie?

Ad here: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/fbh/1432237041.html

That Cognac I Use to Fall Asleep?

2009-09-30T01:21:00.000-07:00

It is Martell Cordon Bleu. I guess I should stop using it to fall asleep or flavoring my fruit.

However, it really is a nice sipper. Super, super smooth. It never occurred to me that it might be so expensive until I tried it once after dinner (instead of in the middle of the night, battling insomnia) and realized that it was much better than an average brandy.

What I've Learned About Food

2009-08-23T13:51:00.000-07:00

I haven't had much time for writing since I started working at LudoBites, but now that is over, and I can put down some thoughts.

Cooking well is labor-intensive.

There is a lot of dreck coming out of restaurant kitchens. Miserable dreck. Like dinner at Angelo's and Vinci's tonight. I even overheard the diners at the next table over complaining about the poor food. And when something tastes and looks mediocre, the food just probably is poor quality to begin with, then frozen for too long, sitting out on the burners for days, or microwaved.

Seriously, I have no idea why A's&V's is still open at all, except for the kitschy (scary) decor. It makes a great haunted house, not so great of a restaurant

Blue Plate on Montana

2009-08-09T23:20:00.000-07:00

mediocre, mediocre

Versai, The Wine Bar

2009-08-03T22:30:00.000-07:00

Now, I rarely bother to write a review for a place that I don't like, but the fact that a wine bar exists in YL at all is great. Awesome. Really good news.

A banner that said "happy hour" and "wine bar" was enough to pique my interest. Sleepy Yorba Linda isn't exactly a place where I have my gustatory delights. So off we went to Versai, sister bar of Fitness Pizza.

The space is really Victorian, in a movie set fake way. Once again, though, this IS Yorba Linda.

Now, admittedly, we only ordered one dish from the kitchen: Kobe sliders. And one dish is hardly enough to give a fair shake at a restaurant. I will, however, pass judgment on a restaurant based on one dish IF that dish is awful. And this was just truly uninteresting and mediocre. No redeeming qualities. I don't think I need to elaborate.

But the best part was that I did get to talk to the bartender, and he said the place was usually pretty busy. The fact that a wine bar is IN Yorba Linda, and it gets busy despite not being very good, is EXCELLENT news for me, who aspires to bring the GOOD stuff to YL. Hopefully, lots of business for me when I finally open a place.

Literati Review

2009-07-27T14:43:00.000-07:00

Literati, that Brentwood neighborhood standby that I've been to many times, and yet just didn't GET it until last night.

I've previously tried their $12 breakfast burrito. OMG, are you KIDDING me? $12 for a breakfast burrito? And it was nowhere as good as at my Placentia favorite, Pepe's. So, don't go to Literati for that.

Last night, we started with the steamed artichoke and garlic mayonnaise. Good.
Moving on to the "skirted" cheeseburger, which is a burger with a wide, overflowing "skirt" of cheese. A good, soft bun and good, flavorful meat, the two necessary components of a burger. I DO recommend.
We also shared the shrimp tacos... again, really good flavor from the shrimp AND the corn tortillas.

Simple things done well, with care to the basic components. Yummy!

Almost Outgrowing My New Knife Bag

2009-07-24T11:35:00.000-07:00

I promised myself I wouldn't buy a knife bag until I got hired. Which I promptly did as soon as I got hired: the basic 8-slot Messermeister bag that every beginner has. I was like, well, I figure I'll outgrow 8 slots in a year; I won't be needing that many knives. And I don't want to be hauling a huge bag around...it somehow doesn't seem fitting for a newbie.

Well, three days into my job, I carry: 8" chefs, 3.5" parer, 4" tomato, vegetable peeler, Microplane grater, pastry brush, and tongs. That's 7 items! The two little knives can fit together, so I've already filled six spots.

Advice to people in the market for a knife bag: just get a big, nice KoobiKit or something else with tons of space right off the bat.

This Post Is the Product of Summer Insomnia

2009-07-23T02:38:00.001-07:00

and the Cognac that I tried to chase it away with.

God dang, I'm lucky. I get off of work, and I feel like I should go jog a mile. I'm psyched to come in, and do my best. Which pretty much means not making any expensive, time-consuming, irreversible mistakes. And, I'm doing ok!

For the first time, I witnessed hazing. Very, very mild hazing. But having never been in a male-dominated arena such as sports or fraternities, I've never seen it before. And if it were done to me, I might have gone home and cried. Sure, I would show up the next day, but I would have felt bad that night. Now I at least know what innocent hazing looks like, and I think I just toughened up a little seeing it take place.

LudoBites

2009-07-10T21:57:00.000-07:00

This is perhaps the most fitting post after the last one that I could make.

I'm freakin' going to be in Chef Ludo's kitchen at LudoBites next Thursday. Cooking.

OMG, I'm turning into a ... FOODIE!

2009-07-02T11:21:00.000-07:00

Quick roundup of the last two days which were filled with gustatory delights:

Coffee cupping at IntelliVenice, plus Los Immortales, El Salvador as espresso and the Kenyan (Thunguri?) as a macchiato. Los Immortales as an espresso does not compare to Anjilanaka at all. There was nice grape and apple fruit, but I didn't like the bottom notes, which were kind of a spicy mud for me. Macchiato was SMOOTH, wow. Intelligentsia LIVES UP to their mission of always redefining espresso. Served by the sweet and gorgeous M'lissa Owens.

Later that night, single malt Scotch tasting, consisting of: Macallan 12, Balvenie Doublewood 12, Glenmorangie Original 10, Glenfiddich 15, and Highland Park. Loved the Glenmorangie and Macallan.

Woke up the next day to some Stan's Donuts! Plain glazed, peanut butter and banana with choc chips, and blueberry crisp! The exterior of the doughnut resists ever so slightly, and then gives way to an airy fluffiness with a satisfying crunch, not unlike a good twice-fried french fry.

And to finish the night, went back to Copa D'Oro with Carly for some cocktails and blues night, every Wednesday. Vincenzo came over to say hi and remembered that I had been in a few nights ago; I was excited like a little girl! Once again, the perfume of the fruit was good and strong in my cocktail, lychee and tequila. This is def my place for Wednesday nights.

But after realizing that M'lissa and Vincenzo had made my drinks, and going gaga over them, I feel like I've definitely crossed over into being a foodie. Foodie isn't a dirty word, though. I'd be starstruck for the greats in music and in math just the same, and no one would say that would be shallow.

Copa D'Oro

2009-06-29T18:48:00.000-07:00

I love a bar that is really serious about their cocktails, and there aren't really that many around. But, I've just discovered the wonderful Copa D'Oro on Broadway in Santa Monica.

The first sign that this place was serious: bowls of fruit on the bar.

The second sign: the cocktail menu, saying that their fruit was from the SM farmers' market, a block away.

The third sign which totally clinched it for me: I could smell the perfume of strawberries from a cocktail glass.

I was served by none other than Vincenzo Marianelli, formerly of Providence and Valentino, the head mixologist. Will have to ask him for his signature drink next time.

Finally Get to Talk

2009-06-26T15:32:00.000-07:00

So you all know I've interviewed two rounds a couple of weeks ago at Caffe Luxxe, and having not heard anything back + a barista wanted ad on CL, it's probably safe to say they've moved on from me. Ah, well, can't win 'em all.

I should mention that Caffe Luxxe has been on Montana Ave. for three years! Congratulations to Mark and the wonderful staff. LA sure does appreciate ya'll.

But let's get straight down to the facts here: the state of coffee in LA sucks.
We've got Intelligentsia, Caffe Luxxe, The Conservatory, Espresso Profeta, Funnel Mill, Groundworks, and La Mill trying to hang on to coffee in SOME way, whether it is Clover machines, single origin beans, or latte art.
The reality is that as long as coffee in LA sucks, Angelinos will never move past their milky drinks and mocha frappucinos. I'm in Intelligentsia, Luxxe, and Profeta, and I see mostly milk drinks going out. Why is the average LA coffee drinker not getting a better coffee drink?

The Conservatory: weak on espresso, but great bean offerings.

La Mill: badly located for their target demographic; soul-less.

Groundworks: has sadly been downhill for awhile. Can't make good coffee from beans that aren't well roasted.

Funnel Mill: love you guys! Kind of on a sleepy stretch of Broadway, hope they get more business.

Caffe Luxxe: great location and neighborhood, but doesn't push the boundaries. Can't educate when you only serve two blends and are David Schomer disciples.

Espresso Profeta: great for Westwood, and at least have a more substantial menu than Caffe Luxxe. There exists some space to tighten up the barista skills.

Intelligentsia: oh, Intelligentsia, how I love thee. And, yet, the snobbiness (reverse snobbiness?) isn't helping. You guys offer the best, and to me are the temple of LA espresso, but locations in Silver Lake and Venice are NOT the places you want to be in order to reach a lot of people who have the potential to care about coffee.

Inevitably, the Darkness Lifts

2009-06-20T16:41:00.000-07:00

and I'm ready to jump into things again.

Coincidence that I'm saying this just after lunch?

The Darkness Descends

2009-06-20T15:47:00.000-07:00

Spent a couple of hours at Borders, quality time with Sally Schneider, Grant Achatz, Eric Ripert, and Ferran Adriá. I got really depressed that I'm not working in my chosen medium. I was looking at pictures, reading the text, and I want it so badly, it hurts. Culinary school is starting to look like something I have to do...?

I am not really expecting anyone to be interested in me, without experience. I'd do ok at the coffeebars, I think, just someone give me a chance!

I've also been so busy that I haven't gone grocery shopping. Not sure if it's also because I might feel down. Make food, with no one to share it with, and not doing it professionally, just sounds not too good... I don't know. Been living off of beans and tortilla chips.

Intelligentsia's SO Anjilanaka

2009-06-19T16:40:00.000-07:00

Now this IS a coffee I want to write about.

Had a beautiful shot pulled by Gabe at Intelligentsia Venice. I heard the typical dribble of poseurs who wanted "something not too strong; maybe a mocha?"

But back to the coffee, from Bolivia. It was bright. But not lemony bright... it was green apple or grape. It was a juicy kind of brightness! Just a delicious, dancing espresso. I unfortunately started drinking water too soon after I finished the coffee, and immediately regretted not being able to savor the aftertaste.

The space is pretty... the modded La Marzocco is GORGEOUS...that thing almost belongs in a museum... and I think 4 two-group Synessos around the perimeter.

Job Search Ongoing

2009-06-18T17:56:00.000-07:00

Found out that I was passed over at Tavern today. That was probably my strongest resume, too...

Intelligentsia needs a busser/dishwasher. Well, I guess I'll apply, since I'd be doing that for awhile if I were offered a job at Luxxe, anyway. And, at least it pays... I did offer to work at Tavern for free.

Intelligentsia's Black Cat

2009-06-18T08:39:00.000-07:00

One of the most famous US espresso blends...

I've had a couple of shots of Black Cat at Intelligentsia, and it was always too bright/sour for my taste. It was quite lemony, actually. It's never sweet, as it's supposed to be. I always get Intelligentsia's Organic Black Cat, which is totally different...

But last week, they didn't have any Organic, so I went with the original. And I went home and pulled shots with it. Sour. Just like in the store. But pulled as a normale, it does seem to be a pleasing acidity. I wouldn't ever buy it again, though.

Graduation Luncheon II

2009-06-09T09:28:00.000-07:00

My regular, escapist thoughts:

Bellinis: two bottles prosecco, two pounds peaches; $30

New Year's Eve gougeres: gruyere, arugula, onions, bacon; $10

tomato salad with burrata, torn croutons, and basil; $20

chicken Caesar salad: Parmigiano, romaine; $10

penne with cauliflower: going for SIMPLE and EASY; $5

raspberry gratin: $10

For a total of $85? Nice.

Graduation Luncheon

2009-06-07T19:11:00.000-07:00

Because I love to cook.

Because I want to share food with people.

Because I want my family to understand.

I am thinking of hosting my own small lunch after my graduation ceremony. My mom's a vegetarian... so I'm definitely going to make something vegetarian. I feel like I hardly even have service for 14 people!!! And, everything has to be made on Saturday. But I'll make it work...

New Year's Eve Gougeres (Zuni)
vegetarian salad
chicken Caesar salad
1 pasta, possibly vegetarian
I want to make banana pudding for dessert, but I doubt my family would like it.

as always, dependent on market prices and inspiration

How I Helped the Economy

2009-06-06T18:35:00.001-07:00

Bought: tomatoes; basil; cucumbers; eggplant; 1 basket of Harry's Berries Seascape variety strawberries. Decided I liked Gaviota better.

Passed up on the cherries, as they were not the same variety that I fell in love with two weeks ago. Apparently, it's the end of cherry season

Realized that I liked the more acidic fruits!

Bought: two knifeguards; Microplane grater; Moleskin journal

Submitted: one and a half job applications

Job Hunting

2009-06-06T03:41:00.000-07:00

Well, as it would happen... Westside Tavern is hiring. I'm going to stop by today.

Chef Warren Schwartz: formerly of Saddle Peak Lodge and Whist @the Viceroy.
Westside Tavern: innovative Californian with accessible prices

Menu descriptions that I could probably reproduce:
hummus with pita, tomatoes, kalamata olives, feta
roasted lemon and mustard chicken
beef short rib pot roast
grilled strip steak, St. Agur blue cheese and tomato salad
charred brussels sprouts and crispy prosciutto
grilled asparagus with lemon and parm

Also just sent a resume to Caffe Luxxe.

Plans!!!

2009-06-04T22:49:00.000-07:00

Cherry clafoutis for sure, this weekend, just to relax.

Providence some time soon! Reservations for the 16th, but subject to revision.

Today was my third day pulling shots with Vivace's beans (sorry, I don't know if they're the Vita or Dolce blend.) This blend is really unique to me. I have previously only used all arabica blends or single origin. The smell of the Vivace beans are also unique, and not in a good way. It smells a little like burned wood and skunk. The smell does come out in the espresso, sometimes. My grind is powder-fine, almost barely choking my Zassenhaus manual grinder, and I'm pulling slightly updosed ristrettos. When I hit the sweet spot with this blend, though, it's well worth it. Sweetness becomes more apparent, as well as a caramel taste. I've had more sour shots than bitter shots, so it seems to like higher temperatures. I think this blend is notable for how well it takes milk. Sadly, either it's the milk or my skills have lapsed, because I've been making stiff foam and soap bubbles all these past three days.

Espresso Profeta

2009-06-02T01:51:00.000-07:00

Quickly following on the heels of my best double ristretto ever is my best cappucino. Ever.

Lovely caramel undertones.

I could write more, but I think nothing more need be said.

Baby Blues BBQ

2009-05-26T16:12:00.000-07:00

I've been wanting to hit Baby Blues ever since they've opened, and finally went there on Memorial Day, since the holiday is so much associated with BBQ.

We had ribs (for some reason, I can't remember or tell if they were back or spare,) pulled pork, grilled shrimp, with blues on the cob, mac 'n cheese, cole slaw, cornbread, and banana pudding for dessert

High points were grilled shrimp, mac 'n cheese, cornbread, and banana pudding.

Everything else was just a little pedestrian, a little lacking in something special. I felt like the ribs just had a little too much char.

And I discovered that Arrogant Bastard Ale goes with BBQ just fine. Was I ever shocked when they brought out a 22 oz bottle instead of a standard 12 oz.

I really liked their banana pudding. It was something new to me, this sweet, slightly trashy Southern dessert. Decadent.

Weekend Market and Food Check-In

2009-05-24T15:31:00.000-07:00

Another great, great Saturday for food.

As always, started off at the SM Farmers' Market. Cherries weren't great a few weeks ago, but now, they're good to go. Nick pooh-poohed them, saying Michigan cherries were better... but I thought they were worth it. Strawberries, still, of course, and tomatoes. The new arrival on the scene is peaches!

Raves this week for the fried Maryland soft-shell crabs at Father's Office, with roasted corn relish, Thai basil, and a Vietnamese chili honey vinaigrette. Nothing says late spring and summer like Maryland soft-shell crabs. It was familiar, in a Vietnamese/Chinese way, but it was still very creative.

After FO, went to Caffe Luxxe for a double ristretto. Wow, I was so shocked by how short it was... it was shorter than my shortest singles! I've never had a double ristretto before, given Carlo's hatred for them. But, it was so amazingly good... so good...

Ragu Bolognese

2009-05-21T12:14:00.000-07:00

Made with cubed chuck instead of ground beef. Somehow the texture of the beef when braised in canned tomatoes takes on a smoothness that I can't accomplish with a regular braise in wine and stock, perhaps due to the acidity of canned tomatoes. It also doesn't have the fattiness of short ribs. I prefer the cubed beef to ground beef, and will be making it this way from now on.

Gosh Darn It

2009-05-19T23:40:00.001-07:00

Dinner at midnight.

Roasted chicken breast, braised celery. Discovering that I had a set of measuring spoons has been a boon for the salt in dry brining chicken. 3/4 tsp kosher per #, 1/4 tsp for Morton's table salt. Brine at least overnight, up to three days. Just say no to dry chicken!

Why Do I Do What I Do?

2009-05-19T16:34:00.000-07:00

After the oil splattered on my skin, leaving burn marks

After the blackberry compote stained the side of the sink a disturbing red color

After my skin has absorbed the smell of fat from making stock

After a dinner with all the charm I can muster

After a carefully edited menu that I designed just for the tastes of my guest

And after many, many bottles of wine

I feel alone and insecure. I just want to watch House and read The Game.

Foodie's Delight

2009-05-18T14:47:00.000-07:00

This weekend was huge for food.

To begin with, Anisette for breakfast, which was a basket of pastries and cappuccini, both the medium and dark roasts. The espressi were pulled wrong, just horrible. It seemed as if water just ran through the pucks, improperly tamped or something. Stick to the drip coffee here. Croissants, of course, were delicious. Anisette makes some of the best croissants in the city.

After Anisette, a short stroll down to the Farmers' Market was in order, where I finally bought a basket of the famed Harry's Berries Gaviota strawberries. They were worth the $5... nothing more need be said. Perhaps this week, I'll try the Seascape variety, which is supposed to be firmer and more acidic than Gaviota.

For a NEW experience, lunch at Tavern, where we had the "pork, pork, pork" burger, the Niman Ranch beef burger, the tuna nicoise sandwich, and the turkey sandwich. Unfortunately, it seemed like the burgers and sandwiches themselves were not quite "omg, wow, this is great," though the Persian dill cucumber pickles served with the sandwiches were amazing. We also liked the AOC bread (a wonderful crust, slightly sour) and the date-walnut bread. Otherwise, I would probably not go back just for burgers and sandwiches. Perhaps dinner plates would be more interesting? However, the atrium is BEAUTIFUL, perfect for lunch, and service is top-notch. The atrium really is unique, and so overall, I would come back.

Then, Sunday, when I went to Yankee Doodles to watch some hockey, baseball, and basketball. Given the primo location on Santa Monica's 3rd St Promenade, and that it's a sports bar, I came in with low expectations, and was pleasantly surprised. Do order the BBQ Ribs, which are spareribs in a sauce that is somewhat sweeter than my preference, but still good. Also impressed by the fries... don't pass them up! I also have to give high marks to my server, who was just awesome. I hardly felt like I was in a sports bar with that kind of service and food. As well, the people watching is fun. This is probably my new top choice for eating on the Promenade.

Finally, while scouring weekend yard sales, I spotted Andrew's Cheese Shop on Montana, which is on the opposite corner of the Pavilions on Montana. Unfortunately, I didn't get any kind of welcome when I walked in, and everything wrapped in plastic wrap turned me off big time. Selection isn't huge, though more than at Surfas, probably. I walked out before I could sample or buy, due to the lack of service, though. Can't a sister get any help?

Pastel Vasco in the Plans for This Weekend

2009-05-12T22:32:00.000-07:00

Or should I be showcasing strawberries? Maybe the strawberries, in their full glory, should just be served with whipped cream, while the outcome of the blackberry pastel vasco is more recipe-dependent than on the quality of the fruit.

One month until graduation! Shall I throw another dinner?

Cinco de Mayo Recap

2009-05-11T17:13:00.000-07:00

Was as follows:

Carnitas

Pinto beans and Mexican rice

Meyer lemon margaritas

This was just a casual weekday dinner party, and the effort required for carnitas was just about all I could muster. What I learned was to be aware of your meat while making carnitas! The pork slowly cooks in lard until it just falls apart. And what are the ramifications of such tender meat? That one had best take care when pulling it out of the molten fat, lest it it fall apart while one grips it with her tongs, drop back into the pot and splatter lard everywhere!

And the margaritas... wellz, we were using Patrón tequila and Citrónge, and I happened to have a Meyer lemon lying around. This made for one heck of a smooth margarita, with no rough edges. I did a 3:2:1 ratio of tequila to triple sec to lemon/lime juice, which everyone found to be ridiculously strong. Given the delicacy of Meyer lemon, probably a 1:1:1 ratio would have been much better. Gah, too bad.

A Saturday Burger Night

2009-05-03T15:01:00.000-07:00

Was as follows:

prosciutto-wrapped dates stuffed with Parmigiano

"fava and garbanzo bean purée with oil-cured olives, french feta, and garlic toasts" from Sunday Suppers at Lucques

Lamb Chopper cheeseburgers on crusty rolls, with bacon and classic accompaniments

So, wow... what a dinner. The fava bean purée can be done with any beans you find in season. I subbed Greek feta for French, for a small discount in price. I give the recipe a 9/10, and would definitely make again. I found it a little salty, perhaps from the feta. Basically, it's a dressed up, Mediterranean-style hummus (but not in the awful "sundried tomato and basil hummus" way.)

As usual, by the time you've gone through appetizers, you're already dreading the main course. Good thing I didn't make dessert, although one of my friends did call me out on its absence.

Drawbacks? I've left my skillet at my friend's house!!

Rendering Lard in LA, Lamb Chopper Cheese

2009-05-02T15:14:00.000-07:00

Just don't. Surfas sells unrendered leaf lard in vacuum-packed weights of about 3/4-1#. Really? Who needs that little? I would assume you need like 6# to make confit. Next time, I'm just going to the carniceria to get lard. It's not like it's a hard to find ingredient around these parts.

But! The find of the day is definitely Cypress Grove's Lamb Chopper, which I fell in love with at the Surfas cheese counter. I'm always a bit turned off by the price of domestic cheeses, but this was amazing. Creamy, nutty, and a little cheddar-y. I'm topping tonights burgers with this!

Food, Socializing, and Love Life

2009-05-01T00:38:00.000-07:00

The beef chuck that I intended to make into burgers tomorrow didn't survive the week; I had made a small burger out of it two nights ago, and it just didn't taste as fresh or as good as the first one I had. Instead, it was made into stew. But I absolutely do want to cook for my friends soon. It's been two weeks since I cooked for anyone! Not to fear, I'm still planning a burger night.

It's Cinco de Mayo next Tuesday! Pork carnitas are my absolute favorite taco filling, stemming from my teenage years in the Mexican-rich city of Placentia. But in LA, I haven't really found any that are done really well, and after so many times being disapointed, I've just stopped looking, ordering chicken tacos instead. What is so hard about carnitas? My most common complaint is that it's dry. Good carnitas should be made like confit: start out with fatty meat, and then cook it in mo' fat! If you have tender, succulent, seasoned meat, you're 90% of the way to good carnitas. The other 10% is easy: a browned, crispy exterior, for textural interest as well as the depth of flavors from the Maillard reaction.

Pork confit was the original "extreme cooking" recipe that I encountered, calling for 3# of pork shoulder, a 48 hour brine, then slow cooking in fat for 5-6 hours. But since carnitas are served in small chunks, you can significantly cut down the brine and cooking time compared doing the whole roast. I think I have to do this; it would make at least one of my good friends pretty happy to have homemade Mexican food, especially if there's also going to be beer and tequila!

I'm currently taking applications for a dining partner. Tavern just opened, and y'all know I'm a Suzanne Goin fan. Animal is also on my list, and has been sitting there for much too long.

Halfway-Through-Midterms Burger Night!

2009-04-27T21:51:00.000-07:00

I ended up not doing the burgers on Sunday, because Carlo needed to use his Pacific pink rockfish and the beef is now chilling out in the freezer for this weekend. I will have access to a food processor, though.

I think I'm going to keep this simple... well made burgers, nothing too fancy, with some craft beer and frozen fries. Maybe milkshakes? And there, we'll have it.

Something You Didn't Think You Could Do By Hand

2009-04-26T00:20:00.000-07:00

In Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street, there are several macabre scenes of the thrifty Mrs Lovett cranking a big manual meat grinder. Being young and poor, I have neither the KitchenAid food grinder or a food processor. After some finely ground beef ruined the texture of my ragu bolognese a few months ago, I've been completely turned off of ground meat.

Watching Hubert Keller slice up some beef chuck by hand made me want to try it out + reading about Nancy Silverton's idea of the perfect burger + $1.97/lb chuck at Ralphs = Julie getting off of her ass to make some food! OK, this requires a little bit more knifework than I was prepared for. The clip, which is edited for maximum impact in a few minutes, makes it look effortless. But I got lazy and I ended up leaving the pieces very large, perhaps closer to the size of taco meat. No matter. I added some chopped shallot, a sage leaf, salt, and pepper. Down it went in my cast iron pan <3 which had a very generous amount of rendered bacon fat in it for six minutes on medium-high heat. I pulled it at medium pink, let it rest, topped it with a little bit of gorgonzola dolce and another sprinkle of salt... and, good gracious, best homemade patty I've ever had, even if it the texture was not quite right. I'll never again only think of braising when looking at a piece of chuck.

While I don't agree with Keller 100% (I'm a proponent of early salting! the man says "cure" like it's a bad thing) the video is worth a watch. I guarantee that you'll learn something new.

I've got about two pounds of chuck in the fridge, salted and peppered, chilling with sage leaves and rosemary, waiting for an awesome dinner tomorrow.

Those $15.99/lb Pork Chops

2009-04-20T14:15:00.000-07:00

Consider that the price for these heritage chops is three times that of your supermarket chops. Were they worth it? I thought they were twice as good as supermarket chops can be, so, yes, I thought they were worth it.

For three cups of brine:
3 tsp sugar
3 tsp table salt
1 tsp crushed juniper berries
3/4 tsp crushed fennel seeds
1 bay leaf
1 chile de arbol
ground pepper
3 tangerine "bodies" (leftovers after being juiced)

While I have never actually found any aroma or taste of the flavorings in the brine, I do it anyway, because it's fun. But in the end, I think a basic brine formula of salt and sugar would yield the same results.

I brined for six hours, since I assumed that these chops, about nine ounces each and bone-in, should be quite juicy, tender, and flavorful on their own.

I heated my lovely cast iron pan up to smoking, and then down they went for 10 minutes; they ended up at medium well-done. My pan was a little overheated, and the time too long if you prefer them cooked to medium. After 10 minutes, I pulled them from the heat and then put them into a warm oven. For the prune sauce (for two pork chops):

1 T minced shallot
6-8 quartered prunes, depending on how much you like them!
1/2 c stock (I used Kitchen Basics beef stock)

Feel free to add thinly sliced garlic and/or thyme.

Remove pan from heat, and add the minced shallot to the pan. When softened (or before they start burning!) add the beef stock and prunes. Return to medium heat and reduce by half. Taste for seasoning. Spoon sauce over chops and serve.

The result? Tender, juicy pork chops. They were a good weight, and Nick and I both felt compelled to gnaw on the bone. There was a bit more fat than you would find on commercially grown pigs, but I found the fat to be extremely similar to the fat on prosciutto: it had a very similar texture, a very white color, and delicate taste. Maybe, just maybe, the sauce stole the show a little bit; chicken stock would be a fine substitute for a less assertive sauce, but the beef stock paired with the pinot noir, Pierre Ponnelle "Vin de Pays d'Oc" 2006, a very food-friendly, rounded wine. Sorry, no tasting notes on this one, as it was not particularly remarkable, its major distinction being very round.

Mid-April Market Report

2009-04-18T14:05:00.000-07:00

Variety at the SM Farmers' Market has gone up since two weeks ago. I even saw custard apples... odd.

The strawberry stands gave off a heady perfume. Just try to pass them without wanting any!
It seems like there's more lettuces, rocket, and dandelion greens.
Green garlic, ubiquitous last month, is on its way out, while leeks are in.
Peas are on most stands... lots and lots of sugar snap peas, around $4-5/lb.
Herbs like basil, mint, parsley, are fresh and beautiful.

For tomorrow's dinner, I'm very pleased with the easy and quick menu I have planned. Pots de creme are already chilling in the refrigerator; a generous friend has given me some tangerines, and my sister is bringing me kumquats for the gorgonzola; and I have made an orange, juniper berry, and fennel seed brine for the Snake River Farms kurobuta pork chops I picked up at Vicente foods. $15.99/lb, really? I'll have a verdict tomorrow.

Sunday Supper at Last

2009-04-17T22:39:00.000-07:00

The date has been rescheduled for this Sunday. I've totally switched gears on what I want to serve, though. Last time, I was focused on spring and seasonality. I think I've given up that pursuit, considering my limited vegetable options. My new, more approachable ideas:

Pan-fried pork chops with prunes in port sauce, over polenta (hmm, lots of Ps there)

Green beans and spring onions
Rosemary roasted potatoes

Gorgonzola, kumquats, toasted walnuts

Vanilla pots de creme, chocolate cookies

Normally, I'd balk at making polenta and roasted potatoes, since I only have one oven-safe skillet at this time (stove top polenta just doesn't work for me.) But I think I shall make polenta in the microwave. For something that takes only 10 minutes, it seems like there's no excuse to make only one or the other.

Shit on a Shingle, or The Sad State of American Bresaola

2009-04-15T14:13:00.000-07:00

Last night, I talked to a friend who recalled fond memories of shit on a shingle, as his mom with a sailor's mouth called it. As he grew up, he realized it just tasted salty.

Today, I decided to give this dish a try, as I have some sub-par domestic "bresaola" lying around. Nope... it's just salty.

Batali was right! American bresaola is a poor substitute for Italian. And it was expensive, at $28/lb! Two thumbs down to American bresaola and to chipped beef and gravy on toast.

Plans Cancelled

2009-04-08T13:45:00.000-07:00

Well, I've fallen sick, and while I could definitely do the menu, I wouldn't be bringing my A game, as it were, to the table.

Sadly, though, that was all of last year's flageolets that I have... I'd rather wait for this year's crop than make them again with older beans.

Sunday Supper on a Wednesday Night

2009-04-07T22:43:00.000-07:00

Everything is an extreme sport these days. Does wanting to make and then age pork confit count? I haven't gotten around to that, yet, but...

I have a friend coming over tomorrow night. I know two things: he likes French food, and he doesn't like vegetables. I pulled out Batali and Goin, looking for inspiration, but in the end, a plastic baggie of flageolets from last year and a spring-y outlook convinced me to go with rack of lamb and flageolets, with a lusty red wine.

Looking over Batali, Goin, and Tanis, the ingredients for seasoning the lamb are almost all the same: thyme, rosemary, and garlic. Goin's tapenade seems more strongly flavored than Tanis', calling for double the amount of anchovy and capers; I will go with his. I've already cooked the flageolets today, and only need to caramelize onions and then bake. I could serve the beans plain, but it is going to be cool tomorrow, with 40% chance of rain. Dessert will be vanilla pots de creme, and I will pick up a couple of chocolate cookies from Diddy Riese.

At this point, I'm just worrying if there might be too much food, if I should make my own bread or pick up a baguette at Amandine, and perhaps, the cost of a red worthy of both mood and food!

The Conservatory for Coffee, Tea and Cocoa

2009-03-28T16:44:00.000-07:00

Ordered a double cappucco (small) and almond croissant at The Conservatory yesterday morning. Milk was well-foamed, and at least 2% milkfat. The espresso underneath was not up to the level of the milk, unfortunately. It seemed a little over roasted to me. However, the almond croissant was AMAZING. The BEST almond croissant I've had. Breadbar's almond croissant is decadent, stuffed with butter, almonds, and a generous dusting of powdered sugar. Amandine's almond croissant is just ok for me. But, my goodness, my croissant yesterday was elegant and refined, and not overtly rich.

Ambiance is great, with good jazz and blues. The baristi were not just friendly, but good at their jobs. The girl that packed my Ethiopian Yirgacheffe Indido Misty Valley remembered the beans that my date ordered two hours before, and even asked me if I had ever tried this coffee before, implying that it was rather exotic, and perhaps not to everyone's taste. I was sure I wanted it, after reading about Ethiopian Sidamos on CoffeeGeek.

Two days off the roast, and I brewed it in a french press today. Wowza, very distinct blueberry. Taken with sugar, it tastes almost like a blueberry or strawberry dessert, but it seems to be free of any wine-y characteristics that I thought the barista was hinting at.

Anyway, I'm pretty happy with the coffee, and would recommend. Extra points for it tasting like dessert, since I've been cooking for one and dessert often gets neglected.

Update: Link to Sweet Maria's notes on Ethiopian Indido Misty Valley

Rockenwagner and March Market Report

2009-03-25T10:13:00.000-07:00

It's the first week of spring!

While waiting for the market to set up, I stepped into Rockenwagner for a cappucino and bienenstich. The coffee was good, from WMF automatic machines, though it was topped with soap bubbles, despite the "barista" trying to knock them out. The bienenstich! I loved the honey-glazed almond layer. Such a clean flavor of honey and almonds. The cream layer, eh, I did not like it as much. It is not regular pastry cream, and I kept wishing that it were.

At the Santa Monica Farmers' Market today:
Citrus. Asparagus.
Every other stall had bunches of green garlic!
Avocados. Artichokes. Kale, cauliflower, and beets.
Lots of berries, especially strawberries for $5/basket.
Many vendors have peas, though I only saw two that had pea shoots: take your pick between the guy selling for $8/lb and $3/lb.
Spinach, arugula, and lettuces.
A single vendor with rhubarb, and it got snapped up pretty quickly; by 9 o'clock, there was only about a pound of scrawny stalks left.
Somewhat conspicuously missing were morels, even though there were two mushroom vendors.

Birthday dinner outcome

2009-02-26T22:53:00.000-08:00

This was my best birthday EVER!

On to the recipe reviews and TN:

Cremant d'Alsace brut, Domaine Joseph Scharsch NV
-wow, delicious for the $25.

Prosciutto and Grilled Asparagus with Whole Grain Mustard
-delicious, but the recipe makes way too much mustard sauce, which was complimented by several people. Even cutting it down by half would yield more than enough sauce.

Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene, Vincenzo Toffoli
-an almost perfect pairing with the prosciutto and grilled asparagus. Really, I couldn't have asked for more. It's the most expensive prosecco I have bought, at $22, but well worth it.

Boeuf à la Niçoise: Braised Beef Stew with Red Wine, Tomato, Olives, and Buttered Noodles
-a good alternative, but the braised short ribs recipe in the Fall section is my clear favorite of the two. I left out the fennel, as one of the guests hates the taste.

Blood Oranges, Dates, Parmesan, and Almonds
-unfortunately, I didn't have the best ingredients for this, since I couldn't make it to the SM farmers' market before my birthday, and it could have been better. It was really good, nice and refreshing. I would probably splash a little bit of lemon, as it was lacking a bit of acidity.

Belgian abbey-style blonde ale, Cuvee Euphorique
-I actually probably would have preferred something a little hoppier as a pairing. The beer was light and fruity, showed some lychee notes and was very good but I probably would pick something else to pair it with next time.

I ended up not making the financiers, but we had cream puffs from Beard Papa's instead!

Birthday dinner musings

2009-02-19T23:52:00.000-08:00

Since it would be a horribly unfriendly thing to invite some friends to Spago or Providence and not be able to pay for them all, I'm thinking of hosting dinner for my birthday.

I've made many recipes from Sunday Suppers at Lucques and most were hits. Very few misses, I would say, though some I would not make again. For my extremely ambitious birthday dinner, my menu idea looks like this:

Prosciutto and Grilled Asparagus with Whole Grain Mustard

Boeuf à la Niçoise: Braised Beef Stew with Red Wine, Tomato, Olives, and Buttered Noodles

Blood Oranges, Dates, Parmesan, and Almonds

Almond Financier with Nectarines and Berries

Coffee
Amaro 18

Even one Goin recipe can be a daunting task, but the stew and financier can be made ahead of time, and the prosciutto will not take too much prep work, so hopefully I can pull this off.

Now to think of wine pairings...

Joel Gott Zinfandel 2006

2008-10-24T02:36:00.000-07:00

No harsh corners, no loud notes. Carlo complains of some light sparkling, which I didn't get. Overall, the style is of elegant reservation: juicy mouthfeel, with soft tannins and some spice. At my local Whole Foods price, $16.99, it was not a good value. K&L sells it for $12.99, which is priced where it should be.